History buffs and the curious alike are drawn to Los Alamos. The town on “The Hill” is the stuff of lore. World famous scientists working in secret in the cold of winter and heat of summer to end World War II. On the morning of July 16, 1945, the world awoke in the atomic age. These brilliant scientists had achieved their goal and successfully tested the first atomic weapon in the desert of southern New Mexico.
Why did this cutting-edge research occur on this water-less mountain in rural New Mexico? That’s a story rooted in a boy’s school. The leaders of the Manhattan Project Codenamed Project Y, Robert Oppenheimer and Leslie Groves, found the boys ranch school high atop a mountain as the perfect place for their research. The site was chosen by Brigadier General Leslie Groves for the Manhattan Project because of its isolation, access to water, ample space, pre-existing buildings which could be used for housing and the fact that much of the surrounding land was already owned by the federal government. It was also located on a mesa in which all entrances could be secured.
Arrival in New Mexico – Lamy
Following the atomic trail begins not in Los Alamos, but in Lamy. There, in the early 1940’s, scientists, engineers, and others assigned to the project arrived on the railroad. Weary from their long rail journeys, they hopped the spur line into nearby Santa Fe where they were housed at La Fonda hotel. La Fonda was right in the heart of Santa Fe.
Reporting for Duty – Santa Fe
Once settled into La Fonda, they enjoyed a comfortable night sleep and a solid New Mexican meal, neither of which they’d enjoyed since they left their homes.
Their next stop was at 109 East Palace. This was the check in point for Project Y. The Office Manager, Dorothy McKibbon, briefed them on where they were going, gave them their access credentials to get through the gates at Los Alamos, and let them know that the little building in the heart of New Mexico’s Capitol would be their sole contact with the outside world.
A Good Meal and Great Conversation – Otowi Bridge
Once you leave 109 E Palace in Santa Fe, your next stop is Los Alamos! Enjoy the 45 minute drive through some of New Mexico’s beautiful scenery. Along the way, be sure to stop at the Otowi Bridge Crossing. There are 2 small buildings along the roadside. No markings. No announcements. But the small red adobe was home to Edith Warner. The original bridge was built for a railroad line to cross the Rio Grande to carry day merchants into nearby Santa Fe. Today a multi-lane highway is a commuter line for workers at Los Alamos who live in Santa Fe.
In 1923, a post office was built at Otowi Bridge to serve the Los Alamos Ranch School. In 1928, Edith Warner, a former schoolteacher, was hired to manage the station. She came looking for solitude, but her little station soon became a gathering place for visitors near and far. Edith became friendly both with the inhabitants of the Ranch school (especially the founder’s daughter, Peggy Pond) and the local San Ildefonso tribe. She also opened a small shop, restaurant, and tea room that welcomed everyone.
Just as soon as the railroad closed in 1941, Otowi became another kind of bridge—one between the old world of Native Americans and ranchers and the new world of the Atomic Age. When the Manhattan Project came to Los Alamos, the house at Otowi Bridge became a frequent destination for nuclear physicists.
J. Robert Oppenheimer, the father of the atomic bomb himself, kept a standing reservation at the restaurant for whenever he wanted to dine. In particular, Edith’s chocolate cake became a local favorite. The relationship between the scientific laboratory, Edith Warner, and the Pueblo people is told in Peggy Pond Church’s novel, The House at Otowi Bridge. Edith died in 1951, and was buried in the traditional Pueblo way, with no markers except broken pottery shards. Her home, too, rests on Pueblo land, now unmarked and unnoticed as time and traffic pass it by.
The Hill – Los Alamos
Once in Los Alamos, I recommend starting your adventure at the National Park Office on 20th street. The Rangers will engage you with stories of the development of the town, Project Y, and all things Manhattan Project. From there, take a leisurely stroll around Ashley Pond and imagine the Ranch School boys swimming in the cool waters on a hot summer day.
The rangers will give you great walking tours of Oppenheimer House, the History Museum, Fuller House (home of the boys school), Bathtub Row, finally ending at the Bradbury Science Museum. Be sure to read all the historical information on what buildings used to stand where modern shops now reside. Los Alamos was not built to withstand history. It was very much a temporary military town. As such, many of the old barracks and labs are long since gone.
If you are really interested in the history of the Project and development of nuclear energy, a visit to the Bradbury Science Museum is a must. Chock full of historical information, interactive exhibits, and special lectures, the science museum is worth a 3-4 hour visit.
More information on local events in and around Los Alamos can be found on their tourism website.
A Side Excursion – Bandelier
There is a post specific to the natural beauty and history of Bandelier National Monument. https://cornersglobe.com/bandelier-national-monument/
During the Manhattan Project, the boarding house at Bandelier was used to house researchers working on the Project. Imagine the trek up to your job site from Frijoles Canyon, on a dirt path. It was a trek.
On the Road with Fat Man and Little Boy
Once you have spent a day on The Hill, you are ready for a road trip! Fat Man and Little Boy took their ride to Southern New Mexico on the train. While you can do this, it’s much easier to jump in your car. Instead of driving I-25 south through Albuquerque take State Road 285 south. It’s a more interesting drive and allows you to follow more closely to the rail lines.
Ground Zero – Trinity Test Site
It’s roughly a 4 hour drive through rural New Mexico to the White Sands Missile Range where Ground Zero resides. If you’re really interested in visiting this place, the military opens their gates on 2 days each year – once in April and once in October. For information on open dates, access restrictions, times, and other pertinent information, White Sands Missile Range’s website can answer all your questions.
https://www.wsmr.army.mil/Trinity/Pages/Home.aspx
There are many things to see and do in all these places. Sights of incredible natural beauty and fascinating history. You could craft a 10 day trip and still not see everything New Mexico has to offer. Plan your adventure along the Atomic Trail and enjoy the sights, sounds, history, culture, and food of this unique place in America.
